Electrics - Got the engine started!!!!

After a good few hours research and asking questions on Locostbuilders, Facebook and the Gixxer forum I final had some information.  Apparently the fuel pump relay wasn’t working due to the anti theft system that was linked to the original bike ignition.  Some modifications were needed to the loom to ensure the bike ecu thought the ignition was still there – I guess this stops people ripping wires out the ignition and hot wiring the bike.  I was told that MK had sorted all the resistors and diodes with the loom when they had it so still wasn't sure what was wrong.

I cut back some of the tape on the loom and found the orange/yellow and black/white wires along with what could be a resistor under some heatshrink – it looked like the necessary mods had been done by Steve at MK.  I used the ohm meter and checked the orange/yellow wire at the ECU – the resistance was 1.9 ohms, about the same as a dead short.  Something wasn’t right.

I wiggled the resistor around and the resistance seemed to flicker about before settling at 100.2 – the resister was 100 ohms so this was right.  It must have been a dodgy connection!!  I stripped the heatshrink back to find very sharp soldered ends which may have been poking through the heatshrink causing a dead short.  I put some extra insulation in there and redid the heatshrink.  Now it was always reading 100 ohms.

I plugged the ECU back in, turned on the ignition on and the fuel pump primed!  Small petrol leak at the throttle bodies due to the jubilee clips not being tight enough.  After this was sorted I tried again, operating the throttle by hand, and got it to start!!!  It ran for 5 seconds before I turned it off as theres no coolant in it yet.

Very pleased to get it running!!!!!!

I also shortened the bike clock loom and removed all the old wires from headlights and indicators.

MK installed resistor in the bike loom.  Note the sharp solder.

Loom to clocks before shortening

The blue/black wire in the middle is from the neutral light.  This is needed for the reverse, as previously mentioned, to ensure the reverse can only be activated when in neutral

Loom section after stripping out and shortening