Airbox continued

 Spent the evening drilling a hole in the front of the airbox and fitting the air intake trumpet.  This was bought from ebay for £13 and will allow me to duct the cold air from either infronf of the radiator or to a vent elsewhere, e.g. side of nosecone.  This should ensure air is nice and cool.

I stitch drilled the hole and smoothed with a file.  The blue trumpet is fixed with Sikaflex and rivets.

I then fixed the side onto the airbox, again using Siakflex and rivets.

Ait intake from eBay

Airbox - Making from aluminium

I spent the day making the airbox I modeled out of cardboard from aluminium.  I chose 1.2mm sheet as this was strong enough but also easy to bend into shape. 

The box was bend to shape using MDF as a guide and G clamps to hold.  The aluminium was then bent by hand.

I marked out the 4no holes for the trumpets (55mm holes at 80mm centres) and filed the edges smooth.  I installed the trumpets and put the box on the engine to check the bonnet clearance.  The first few attempts didn’t fit and I ended up cutting off the 20mm lip I left for attaching the lid.  I also had to bend the box more than planned so as to ensure the bonnet didn’t catch.

I decided against sealing the airbox against the bonnet so decided to make a lid for it, again using 1.2mm aluminium sheet.  This is a tight fitting lid that will be held in place with screws and clips.  I will use some adhesive foam to form an airtight seal.  With the bonnet in position the airbox just catches but I couldn’t reduce the height any more or it would restrict airflow in the trumpets.  I can fix some foam to the top of the box to cushion it against the bonnet at a later date.

I have designed this airbox to use the original bike air filter.  I will also install an intake hose from the side and position it somewhere where it will get cold air from (possible infront of the radiator or a vent in the side of the nose cone.

Bend to shape

Sides cut to shape

Lid bent to shape

Steering wheel - Padded centre with embossed MK logo

I decided to have a break from the electrics today so got on with the steering wheel. 

The wheel I bought is a Mountney D shaped, 255mm diameter but it has a hard centre so will probably fail the IVA.  I decided to make a padded centre for this but also have a go at making one with the MK logo.

I started by cutting foam to the right shape (foam was a yoga brick) and sanded the edges.  I then cut out the MK logo from 3mm cardboard and again smoothed the edges.  Next I cut a piece of MDF to the same shape as the foam (wood needed as I plan on covering with leather and stapling it).  The MDF was drilled for the 6 fixing bolts and then a piece of 2mm steel plate was cut and drilled the same as the MDF.

I then welded 6 bolts to the steel plate so the nuts can be tightened as the heads will be hidden.  Then using contact adhesive spray I fixed a piece of leather from some old trousers (not mine!) to the foam with the cardboard cut out of the MK logo between the two.   I used some small craft tools to press the leather in the corners to ensure the logo was clear. 

I then stretched the leather around the back and fixed to the MDF with a staple gun, trying to keep any folds neat and even.  Excess was removed with a knife.

For a first attempt I think it looks ok but I wish I had cut the foam thinner as it sticks out a bit too far.

Airbox - Cardboard mock up modified

Today I modified the airbox mock up again, this time to allow use of the original GSXR panel filter which would mean I wouldn't need to have a cone filter under the bonnet sucking in warm air.  Instead I could duct the intake from the airbox to somewhere cooler, e.g. an intake in the top or side of the nose cone.

The plan would be to have the intake hole at the bottom of the front face

Electrics - Fuel pump and fan switch

Today I spent some time putting in some cables for various things.  I ran a 4 core cable from the bike look down to the fuel pump and cables to the rad fan and fan switch.  I also connected up the starter relay, running the cable back to the kill switch.

Fuel pump cable extended, soldered and heatshrinked

Brake push rod and dash switch template

Today I installed the brake push rod.  This was made from an M8 x 90mm 12.9 HT bolt that I cut the head off.  This has been adjusted so that the push rod is just pushing against the master cylinder.  Hopefully The ratio will be sufficient but if not, it can be altered by moving the position of the clevis up or down the pedal.

I also drilled my dash template and fitted all of my switches.  The plan is to get all the switches working before I go cutting my carbon dash as I could easily make a mistake with it.

I have installed all the switches to the timber dash template I used for the steering column hole.  I have been extravagant and bought all savage switches.  I have got switches for side light, dipped light, headlight, fog light, fan switch, horn, hazard, indicator telltale, handbrake telltale and start button.

Wiring diagram updated

I spent a couple of hours sorting out the wiring diagram.  This time I drew it out on the computer using MS Paint as it was simple to create coloured wires.

I have not checked it fully for mistakes but I plan to update it to include more information, e.g. ignition, bike loom relays, killswitch, reverse etc.